Relaxed intensity
The original plan was to stay only a few weeks in Kenya, centered around seeing my dear friend Caroline. After only a few days, I realized it would require more time to truly get to know this country. My research only returned a single coliving in Kenya, and seeing as I had a mountain of work to do, I decided to book it.
As I continue to settle into my nomad ways, and the work/life balance it provides, I find myself staying in more coliving accommodations. My latest one, Live Skippers, felt purpose built for me. One of the other coliver’s described it as “rough and ready.” That’s an apt label, and in the best way possible. The owners are themselves former nomads, and understand the unique requirements needed in a coliving/coworking space. Yet they also did well to bring the Kenyan life and flavor into the compound.
The grounds are minimally trimmed to maintain a sense of wildness about the place. Each room is a recycled shipping container. The rooms are comfortable and have all the amenities you’d need, including a private bathroom, desk, strong wifi and air conditioning. The compound had a coworking office with extra monitors, a gym, a pool and a full kitchen. There was even an onsite restaurant serving some of the best pizza I’ve honestly ever had. It also provided the option for daily meal boxes, a brilliant addition I might add.
My time in Diani is hard to articulate. I spent a very large portion of it working extremely intently. My days were spent largely in my room, writing code and getting shit done. Sort of boring when you’re in such a beautiful place. But that’s the beauty of coliving. With other like-minded individuals around you get a good mix of chill alone time and group time.
I quickly fell into a routine. Coffee and my book in the morning. Intense coding sessions in the late morning. Lunch and a swim in the pool, followed by more work into the early evenings. Decompress with a cold beer and dinner. Card games and good conversations to end the night.
I also found a wonderful little end of night routine, playing afrobeats in my room while I showered and relaxed before going to sleep. This was something I looked forward to each day.
Diani is a resort town, visited by people coming from Nairobi for a holiday, but also a fair few internationals. At first I didn’t understand how these people knew about Diani., as I certainly hadn't heard about it until a week prior to my arrival. It’s not very big and I didn’t view Kenya as a big tourist destination. The answer was obvious however. People come for the safaris in the Maasai Mara, then end their holidays relaxing on the beach here. Makes total sense once it was pointed out.
And while it is a resort town, it’s definitely not like what most American’s would think of. It’s nothing like Cancun. It’s still very localized and rural. There’s essentially one road that everything happens off of, everything else is a dirt road. And the beach stretches on forever. The strip is a lesson in juxtaposition. Expensive resorts next to slums. Local shops and restaurants next to western styled places. I was actually surprised at the food options. We ate Korean, Indian and Japanese, had Philly cheesesteaks and amazing pizzas, and of course all the fresh seafood and ugali you can handle.
I found myself lucky as the coliving was full for the bulk of my visit. And a great group of people to boot! A diverse group with a diverse set of interests. Which led to plenty of fun and a few shenanigans.
We had the classic, let’s go out for “one drink” that led to us going clubbing till 4am. There was a bbq and a bonfire, and everyday people were going to check out some new cafe or chill spot to work or relax.
One particular weekend, a few of us took some rented scooters for an adventure down south near the Tanzanian border. Our aim was Wasini island, where you can get a boat to the island to snorkel and swim with dolphins. However, a late night the evening before had us leaving a bit late. When we arrived to the shore across from the island, it was a bit late to do the boat and see any dolphins.
Instead we grabbed a beer, then went to the only attraction in town. There are a series of caves once used by slave traders to stockpile and hide Kenyans taken from their villages. Sometimes the caves would house more than 1000 people before they were loaded onto boats bound for the slave markets in places like Mombasa and Zanzibar.
On our way back up towards Diani we made a few more stops, including the mangrove boardwalk in Gazi. The boardwalk is an eco-tourism venture run by the Gazi Women Group. The group aims to restore and maintain the fragile ecosystem of the mangroves that are so vital to the survival of people in the surrounding areas. The guided walk helped us learn about the different types of mangrove trees and each of their uses.
We wrapped up our day by getting separate in traffic on our way to dinner. Arriving at the restaurant, I was reunited with the rest of the group and imbibed in a few cocktails to wind down the day. On the commute back to Skippers, my headlights stopped working, so I had a white-knuckled adventure. I was forced to follow close behind a tuk tuk, using their headlights to see the potholes and speed bumps in the road.
My time at Skippers was one of the best fits for me and my way of being. Especially as I continue to take on freelance projects. It had everything I needed and was so comfortable. It became a running joke amongst the group that I never left the compound.
But, by far, the best part of Skippers was the team. From the owners, through the staff, to the interns. Everyone was simply wonderful. Welcoming, friendly, always ready with a quick joke and a smile. It was a pleasure and an extreme honor to get to know each of them during my time onsite.
Such was my comfort level that I extended my stay ... twice, ultimately staying for two full months.
One of the reasons I ended up extending was that myself and another guest had decided to continue our solo adventures together. We had similar-ish plans for the near term, including going back to Nairobi for another week. So when our time in Diani was up, we hopped the train from Mombasa. Lancelot, another from our Skippers crew, was also now in Nairobi, so the three of us spent the week checking out different parts of the city.
One morning we got up extra early to drive about 90 minutes into the great Rift valley to hike Mt. Longonot, an active volcano. It was a moderate but intense hike. We hiked up and then around the entire crater, all the while taking in stunning views of the Rift valley. The crater ridge walk definitely put my acrophobia front and center on more than a few occasions. But I handle it well. Which is a very good thing, considering some of the insane things I have planned for the end of this year (stay tuned)!
With the remaining days of my visa dwindling rapidly, it was time to close the Kenyan chapter of my adventures. Kenya grew on me. It was a slow burn to be sure, but as my time ended and I reflected on the past months I felt a great love for the country and a sadness to be leaving.
It’s a country of juxtapositions. Modernity with a tradition first approach. Wealth and opportunity, propped up by inequality and squalor. A country both ahead of its time and yet still stuck in the past. Tin walled shacks hastily built against million dollar high-rises. It’s humanity pressed against itself. People everywhere. Yet no one person seems above or below anyone else. Business men in suits walking the same chaotic streets with people with no shoes.
Yet I found its people to be some of the most colorful, alive and happy people I’ve encountered. It’s a young and excited people, full of ingenuity and ready to take on the world. Everywhere I went it was smiles and laughter. They are beautiful and inspiring.
Mix it all together and I walk away with my most intense experience yet. I was challenged at every turn. Dared to find faults in everything and everyone, including myself. But as I exit the country, I do so with a profound love and appreciation. Grateful for the opportunity to see this country from so many perspectives. It was raw and real, and I felt it to my very core.
So, Asante Kenya! I hope we meet again.